One of the key challenges of maintaining lush, healthy lawns and gardens is being able to quickly identify and manage the various pests that, if unintentionally encouraged, can wreak havoc on turf and vulnerable plants.
While different temperatures and weather patterns can lead to different garden ecosystems and pest varieties across Europe, this guide will offer practical tips for dealing with garden pests that can be commonly found across the UK, France, Germany, and Italy.
In particular, you'll learn about the damage they cause, effective identification and management methods, and preventive strategies to avoid future infestations. As traditional pest management practices can sometimes appear cruel, we offer – whenever possible – alternative methods that remain effective without being unnecessarily harmful. This choice reflects growing interest in sustainable landscaping practices, chemical-free solutions and biodiversity, as shown by our recent market research across the UK, Germany, France, and Italy.
Leatherjackets are the larvae of crane flies, also known in the UK and North America as “daddy long-legs.” While the adults are harmless, their larvae can cause serious damage by feeding on grass and plant roots, leading to patchy, yellowing lawns. These pests thrive in damp soil, particularly during wet autumn months.
They’re tricky to spot because of their greyish-brown colour, which helps them blend into the soil. They have tubular bodies, up to 30mm long, with no legs or visible head. If your client's lawn starts deteriorating, try lifting a section of turf – you might find leatherjackets lurking just beneath the surface.
Left untreated, leatherjackets don't just harm the lawn. They also attract birds, foxes, and other animals that dig up turf looking for an easy meal, causing even more damage.
The most effective way to deal with leatherjackets is by using nematodes, microscopic worms that naturally target and eliminate the larvae. These helpful organisms penetrate the pests and release bacteria that quickly reduce their numbers.
For the best results, apply nematodes in early autumn, when the larvae are still young. Simply mix the nematodes with water, then sprinkle with a watering can, keeping the soil damp for a couple of days.
Preventing a leatherjacket infestation starts with good lawn maintenance.
Since these pests thrive in damp conditions, improving drainage and aerating the soil can make a lawn less inviting, minimising the risk of unwanted colonies.
Chafer grubs are the larvae of chafer beetles. Like leatherjackets, they feed on grass roots, leading to thinning, patchy lawns – especially in autumn and spring. Their presence also attracts birds and small mammals that dig up the turf in search of food.
You can identify chafer grubs by their creamy-white, C-shaped bodies, brown heads, and three pairs of legs near the head. They're usually found in the top layers of loose turf.
Similarly to leatherjackets, controlling chafer grubs naturally is best done with nematodes, which should be applied between July and September when soil temperatures are warm enough for them to be effective.
These beneficial worms will infect the grubs, reducing their numbers and consequently the population of adult beetles. For minor infestations, lifting the affected turf and manually removing the grubs can also be effective.
It may seem obvious, but keeping a lawn healthy and resilient is the best way to prevent a chafer grub infestation.
Overly moist soil can attract beetles to lay their eggs, so warn clients to avoid excessive watering, especially in late summer. Regular mowing also makes the lawn less welcoming for adult beetles.
Lastly, aerating the soil and ensuring it is well-fertilised will help strengthen grass roots, making them more resistant to damage.
Ants are a common sight in gardens, thriving in lawns, flower beds, and potted plants. There are more than 400 species of ants across Europe, with the most well-known being the black garden ant (Lasius niger).
While ants play a vital role in the ecosystem, when their colonies are too large, they can become a nuisance, particularly in lawns and flower beds. For instance, their tunnelling creates mounds of displaced soil, which can smother low-growing or ornamental plants and make mowing difficult.
If ants become problematic, reducing their numbers can be done using natural methods. Pouring boiling water directly into anthills is a simple and effective way to encourage the colony to move on.
Alternatively, diatomaceous earth, a natural powder made from fossilised algae, can be sprinkled around infested areas to dehydrate the ants and reduce their numbers. A more humane method is to spray a mixture of vinegar or lemon juice along their trails, which can disrupt their movement and force them to relocate.
Ants prefer dry, sandy soil, so frequently watering a lawn can discourage them from nesting. Regularly flattening anthills before they grow too large can also prevent colonies from expanding.
Cutworms are the larvae of many species of nocturnal moths, including the turnip moth and the large yellow underwing. Like sod webworm larvae, cutworms feed during the night and retreat into the soil during the day.
These caterpillars are normally brown but, depending on the species, their colour can range from tan, white, green, and grey to black. A distinguishable feature is the cutworm's three pairs of legs and five pairs of prolegs, differentiating them from the legless leatherjackets. Cutworms are also larger than leatherjackets, growing up to 5cm in length.
Cutworm larvae feed on grass as well as the stems, roots, and leaves of seedlings, which can have devastating effects on your garden ecosystem as the appetite of these pests continues to grow with their size.
One of the simplest ways to remove cutworms is by picking them off manually at night when they are most active. Dropping them into soapy water will quickly dispose of them.
As you're unlikely to be working during the night, however, applying nematodes to the soil is another effective method of biological control, as they target the larvae before they can do significant damage.
A natural bacterial treatment called Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) can also be applied to infected areas to eliminate cutworms without harming other beneficial insects in the garden ecosystem.
Cutworms lay eggs on grass and weeds, so keeping these trimmed around planting areas can help prevent an infestation.
Surrounding the most vulnerable plants with protective collars made from cardboard or plastic can also stop cutworms from reaching and damaging the stems.
Aphids are small sap feeding insects, ranging from one to seven millimetres in size. There are many different species, resulting in a variety of colours – including yellow, white, black, and pink. They usually live on flower buds or on the underside of leaves, on grass blades and shoots.
Because of their sap-sucking nature, aphids can be extremely detrimental to the health of an infected plant, often causing stunted plant growth and distorted leaves.
When aphids attack grass blades, this results in an initial yellowing of the turf that later deepens into an orange colour.
Aphids can be controlled by spraying affected plants with a strong stream of water to dislodge them or applying a homemade solution of dishwasher soap, neem oil, and water to remove them naturally.
Alternatively, introducing beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings, which are natural predators of the aphids, can also help control their numbers.
Companion flowers such as marigolds and nasturtiums or vegetable plants such as mint, chives, onion garlic are known to repel aphids and can be placed near vulnerable garden plants to deter their presence.
Slugs and snails are one of the most common and destructive pests, feeding on a wide variety of garden plants, including grass, flower buds, and vegetables. You can usually spot them because they leave behind tell-tale slime trails and irregularly shaped holes in leaves, stems, and roots.
Slugs thrive in damp, shady environments and are most active at night or after rainfall. Unlike insects, they have soft, elongated bodies and use their rasping mouthparts to scrape away at plant tissue.
There are many effective ways to control slugs naturally, for instance, handpicking them in the evening when the area to cover is relatively small.
Depending on your ethics, setting up beer traps – small containers that are filled with beer and buried at soil level – can be another viable strategy. Slugs are attracted to the scent of beer and are easily lured and trapped in the containers.
Alternatively, copper tape or rings can be placed around plants to deter them, as they dislike the electrical charge created when they come into contact with that element.
Slugs are drawn to moist environments, so improving drainage and reducing excessive watering will make your garden less appealing.
Keeping grass trimmed and removing debris and fallen leaves will eliminate hiding spots, helping you see and get rid of slugs quickly when they appear. You can also use coarse materials for mulching – such as crushed eggshells or wood ash – to create a rough surface that slugs will avoid crossing.
Vine weevils are a particularly troublesome garden pest, with both their larvae and adult forms causing damage.
The larvae are white, legless grubs that feed on plant roots, leading to sudden plant collapse. Adult weevils, which are black and about 10mm long, chew irregular notches into leaves, further weakening plants.
These pests are especially problematic in greenhouse plants, flower beds, and gardens. Since vine weevils are nocturnal and often hide in soil or leaf litter during the day, they can be difficult to detect before serious damage occurs.
The best way to tackle vine weevils is to target their larvae with nematodes, which infect and kill the larvae before they can cause extensive root damage.
Otherwise, adult vine weevils can be controlled by handpicking them at night when they are active. Shaking plants over a sheet of paper will dislodge them, making it easier to collect and dispose of them. Applying diatomaceous earth around the base of plants can also deter weevils, as the fine particles damage their exoskeletons.
Preventing vine weevils starts with regular plant inspections. Checking leaves for signs of damage and examining soil for larvae will help catch infestations early.
For potted plants, using fresh, sterile compost can prevent larvae from sneaking into a garden. Placing sticky barriers around pots and raised beds will also stop adult weevils from climbing up and laying eggs.
Scale insects are small, sap-feeding pests that attach themselves to plant stems, leaves, and even grass blades. Female scale insects are particularly problematic as they remain stationary, forming hard, shell-like coverings that protect them from predators and many common insecticides.
These pests weaken plants by draining their nutrients, causing yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and, in severe cases, plant death.
Unlike more mobile pests, female scale insects can be difficult to detect due to their ability to blend in with plant surfaces. They often appear as small, brown, or grey bumps on stems and undersides of leaves.
Due to their protective shells, female scale insects are remarkably resistant to traditional pesticides. The best way to remove them is by physically scraping them off with a soft brush or cloth dipped in soapy water or diluted rubbing alcohol.
Applying horticultural oil or neem oil also suffocates these pests and prevents new eggs from hatching.
If infestations are widespread, introducing natural predators such as ladybugs or parasitic wasps can be an effective biological control strategy to help keep the scale insects population in check.
Regularly inspecting your clients' garden plants for signs of scale insects and wiping down leaves and stems can prevent infestations from spreading.
Moreover, keeping young plants healthy with an optimised fertilisation and watering schedule is a simple but effective way to make them more resilient to pests.
Dealing with garden pests can be frustrating, but with the right approach, you can minimise the risk that your lawn will receive unwanted visits.
Quite simply the best defence against pests is a strong, healthy lawn. Regular mowing, adequate watering, and a well-planned aeration strategy will create the ideal conditions for grass to thrive, making it more resilient to infestations. Keeping up with your usual fertilisation routine (for fertilisation advice, read professional tips here) will also ensure that your client's lawn gets all the nutrients it needs to stay lush and green while naturally discouraging pests.
By combining good lawn care practices with targeted pest control, you'll not only prevent infestations but also help your clients enjoy a vibrant, thriving outdoor space all year round.
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Something isn't right with your client’s lawn. You know it's not just suffering from drought or overwatering, and you’re certain it’s a lawn disease – you’re just not sure exactly which one.
Admiring a beautiful, healthy lawn – with no flaws or bare patches – is one of the simple pleasures of life. However, few people outside the lawn care industry realise how much work is needed to obtain this end result.
As a professional landscaper, your expertise encompasses the care and maintenance of outdoor spaces, ensuring the health and vibrancy of your clients' lawns and green spaces.
This article has the professional seal of approval from Paul Griffin, owner of Paul's Garden Services and Handyman in West Yorkshire, UK.